964 - Changing the engine oil
This article is for the 964 Turbo. For a normally aspirated car, skip the turbo items.
First, purchase the following parts and tools: (2) Drain plug seals (P/N 900-123-118-30) $1.00 for both. (1) Turbo sump oil drain seal 12mm x 17mm (P/N 900-123-055-30) $2.75. (1) Mahle OC-75 oil filter (P/N 944-107-201-03) $10.50 or original Porsche $23.00. (1) Oil filter wrench to fit over the end of the above filter (Get it cheap at Pep Boys). (10) Quarts of Mobil-1 (15w-50 is my favorite), I get two of the 5 quart jugs at Wal-Mart for $22.00 each. (1) Pair of jack stands. (1) Floor jack (You can use the Porsche jack, but it takes forever to jack up each side). (1) 6mm Allen wrench. (1) Torque wrench (0-50 ft/lbs.). (1) 3/8" ratchet wrench with 10" or 15" extension. (4) Rags to catch any drips at each drain location and the filter mount.
Best to drain the oil about 30 minutes after a long drive. This will ensure the oil has picked up the most particles and contaminates but is not so hot that it will scald your hands. Ensure your Porsche Turbo is on solid level ground and set the parking brake. Make certain that the car cannot roll forward or backward by blocking the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the car under the engine (protected by a short piece of 2x4 or 2x6 wood) and place jack stands under the rear jacking points.
Be sure to have a large oil drain pan that can hold 10-12 quarts. Drain the oil from the engine sump (15mm wrench). Discard the old drain plug seal, inspect the drain plug magnet for large chips, and clean it as required. This is a good time to drill this oil fitting for safety wire, if you are so inclined. Replace the engine sump oil drain plug with new 22mm x 27mm seal (P/N 900-123-118-30) and torque to 31 ft/lbs.
Move to the turbocharger oil sump drain bolt (6mm Allen) and remove it. Discard the old drain plug seal and inspect the drain plug and clean it as required. This is also a good time to drill this oil fitting for safety wire. Replace the turbocharger sump drain plug with a new 12mm x 17mm seal (P/N 900-123-055-30) and torque to 15 ft/lbs.
Next, drain the oil from the oil tank through the thermostatic valve located just in front of the right rear wheel (15mm wrench and a hammer to tap the wrench since you can't yank on the thermo valve too hard). This is close to the right rear jacking point, you may have to jockey around the jack stand. Discard the old drain plug seal, inspect the drain plug magnet for large chips, and clean it as required. This is also a good time to drill this oil fitting for safety wire. Replace the oil tank drain plug with new 22mm x 27mm seal (P/N 900-123-118-30) and torque to 31 ft/lbs.
Remove the oil filter under the car from its location on the right front of the engine using the oil filter wrench, a 3/8" ratchet wrench, and a 10"-15" extension. Drain the oil filter and discard of the oil in old milk jugs at a recycling center or service station. Using a bit of the new engine oil, moisten the new oil filter rubber gasket and install the new oil filter hand tight. The new gasket will expand slightly to make a good seal.
Check to make sure all three oil drain plugs are tight and the oil filter is in place. Raise the car and remove the jack stands, then lower the car. Open the rear cover and slowly add five quarts of oil through the engine oil tank filler. Start the car and slowly add one quart of oil at a time. Allow the engine to warm up to operating temperature and verify the level of oil in the tank is about half full. If your oil tank level gauge is suspect, use the dipstick that came with the car. It will always be correct if the car is parked and running on a level surface.
Replace the oil tank filler cap. Check for leaks and enjoy the next 10,000 miles or two years, whichever happens first.